Pandal hopping, fed

Sovabazar · Bhog

Must order: Niramish bhog on kola pata

Free prasad, limited plates, arrive with the priests.

Belur · Bhog

Must order: Khichuri prasad

Ferry across the river, then the calmest meal of your Puja.

Deshapriya Park · Street

Must order: Ghugni with kancha lanka

Forty rupees of pure pandal-hopping happiness.

Bagbazar · Bhog

Must order: Khichuri bhog with labra

Ashtami bhog - token from the counter by 10 AM.

Manoharpukur · Bhog

Must order: Payesh & niramish

Nabami lunch, sit on the floor with the para.

College Street · Street

Must order: Phuchka with tamarind water

Stand, eat, repeat - the sourest water in town.

Gariahat · Bhog

Must order: Khichuri, beguni, chatni

Coupon from the club desk on Ashtami morning.

College Street · Sweet Shop

Must order: Kochuri-alur dom + radhaballavi

Breakfast before your north Kolkata pandal walk.

Shyambazar · Sweet Shop

Must order: Mishti doi in matir bhar

Best doi on the northern trail. Buy two.

Southern Avenue · Street

Must order: Egg chowmein with extra chilli

Wok on a cart, best after a Deshapriya Park round.

South Kolkata · Street

Must order: Egg chicken roll

Post-pandal fuel at 1 AM, queue moves fast.

Esplanade · Street

Must order: Chicken stew & toast at Chitto Babur Dokan

Office-lane lunch culture, plastic stools and steel plates.

Esplanade · Sweet Shop

Must order: Rosogolla in tin

The family that invented it. Take the tin home.

Bowbazar · Sweet Shop

Must order: Ledikeni & gurer sandesh

Since 1826, with the clock Lady Canning is said to have gifted.

Jadavpur · Sweet Shop

Must order: Abar khabo sandesh

Pick-up point mid-way through the south trail.

Poddar Court · Street

Must order: Pork momo & fish ball soup

5:30-8 AM only. Kolkata's oldest Chinatown breakfast.

College Street · Cabin

Must order: Infusion & mutton afghani

Ceiling fans, adda and the loudest silence in Bengali culture.

Hedua · Sweet Shop

Must order: Jol bhora sandesh

Tiny shop, enormous reputation, no seating.

Park Street · Street

Must order: Chicken egg roll

Crisper paratha than Kusum. Pick your side of the war.

Esplanade · Cabin

Must order: Mughlai paratha

Since 1925. Order it with mutton kosha, thank me later.

Sovabazar · Cabin

Must order: Prawn cutlet

Ten-seat legend hidden mid-lane; cash only.

Park Street · Street

Must order: Mutton double egg roll

Park Street's midnight roll counter, always three deep.

Bhowanipore · Sweet Shop

Must order: Baked rosogolla, nolen gur sandesh

Sweet engineering. Buy a box for the host family.

New Market · Street

Must order: The original kathi roll

Where the roll was invented. Ask for double egg.

College Street · Cabin

Must order: Kabiraji cutlet

A 1900s cabin with curtained booths and zero pretence.

Hindustan Park · Cabin

Must order: Mutton kabiraji & fish fry

Gariahat pandal trail's oldest snack stop.

Shobhabazar · Cabin

Must order: Brain chop & fish kabiraji

Pre-Puja institution. Go before 8 PM or lose an hour.

Bhowanipore · Cabin

Must order: Fish thali

Bhat-hotel of the old school, lunch only.

Esplanade · Cabin

Must order: Thali with shukto & mangsho

1930s canteen, shared tables, unchanged menu.

Shyambazar · Cabin

Must order: Kosha mangsho with paratha

Black as night, hot as sin. The north Kolkata rite of passage.

New Market · Fine Dining

Must order: Mutton biryani & rezala

Century-old biryani house, Puja-night staple.

Free School Street · Fine Dining

Must order: Kochu pata chingri

Dhaka-style Bengali, the shrimp wrapped in taro leaf.

Southern Avenue · Fine Dining

Must order: Mangsho thali

Puja lunch without the month-ahead booking.

Multiple · Fine Dining

Must order: Chital macher muithya

Reliable everywhere, and there is one near every pandal.

Park Street · Fine Dining

Must order: Kasha mangsho & luchi

Bengali cinema-themed, retro to the core.

Park Street · Fine Dining

Must order: Chelo kebab

Not Bengali, entirely essential. Expect a wait.

Ballygunge · Fine Dining

Must order: Daab chingri, kosha mangsho

Puja-lunch classic in a restored mansion. Book ahead.